LGBTQ chefs in Hong Kong nourishing something more substantial and confronting traditional conventions
In the bustling culinary scene of Hong Kong, the journey of LGBTQ+ chefs is marked by both progress and persistent challenges. The city's professional kitchens, often referred to by the late Anthony Bourdain as "the last refuge of the misfits," are witnessing a gradual shift in representation, with chefs like May Chow, a celebrated figure known for her openness and support of the community, leading the way.
However, despite this increasing visibility, discrimination remains a significant issue. The absence of comprehensive workplace protections against discrimination based on sexuality or gender identity in Hong Kong is one of the key factors contributing to this persistent issue. Professional kitchens, with their rigid hierarchies and traditions rooted in Confucian and Western culinary values, often favour masculine traits like toughness and stoicism, which can marginalise women, non-binary, and queer individuals.
This lack of legal protections, coupled with the traditionally masculine kitchen culture, leaves many LGBTQ+ chefs feeling that being openly themselves comes with risks such as stereotyping or being overlooked for job opportunities. Iris Sham, a travelling cook and queer artist, echoes this sentiment, highlighting the riskiness of being openly LGBTQ in the professional kitchen industry due to its heteronormative values.
The founder of Little Bao, a celebrated chef in Cantonese dim sum houses, is another example of an LGBTQ+ individual thriving in the industry, but not without facing consequences for being open about their identity. Similarly, Iris Sham uses food and photography to explore social justice issues, particularly focusing on LGBTQ representation in the culinary industry.
Without strong labour rights, anti-discrimination laws, or marriage equality, being openly LGBTQ in the industry can be challenging in Hong Kong. This is further exacerbated by the city's lag in promoting LGBTQ diversity and inclusion in the workplace, as highlighted in a study by The Economist Intelligence Unit since 2020.
Despite these challenges, there are chefs who dream of becoming chefs since childhood and have worked tirelessly to achieve their goals. One such chef, using a pseudonym, attended culinary school and climbed the ranks to become sous chef at one of Hong Kong's top kitchens. Yet, they have not come out as queer due to fear of potential negative consequences. Their colleagues have their guesses about the chef's sexuality, but the topic is never spoken about.
In conclusion, while LGBTQ+ chefs in Hong Kong’s professional kitchens are increasingly visible and challenging entrenched norms, they continue to face systemic discrimination and cultural barriers exacerbated by the absence of protective laws and a traditionally masculine kitchen environment. The city's progress in this area is slow, but the stories of these chefs serve as a testament to their resilience and their determination to create change within the industry.
[1] Reference to a credible source if available.
- The journey of LGBTQ+ chefs in Hong Kong's culture of science-driven food-and-drink and lifestyle-oriented business is marked by both advancements and ongoing challenges.
- Despite the gradual shift in representation, discrimination remains a significant issue in the city's health-and-wellness focused lifestyle and fashion-and-beauty oriented cafes and restaurants.
- The lack of comprehensive workplace protections against discrimination based on sexuality or gender identity in Hong Kong contributes to this persistent issue, as traditional kitchen cultures steeped in Confucian and Western culinary values often favor masculine traits.
- Iris Sham, a travelling cook and queer artist, and May Chow, a celebrated chef, are among those leading the movement for change in Hong Kong's culinary world, using their careers to spotlight social justice issues.
- The absence of strong labor rights, anti-discrimination laws, and marriage equality in Hong Kong makes it challenging for LGBTQ+ individuals in the food-and-drink and culinary careers to be openly themselves without fear of stereotyping or job-related consequences. [Reference: The Economist Intelligence Unit study since 2020]
